Are Crafted Chains Real Gold?
Gold has been associated with beauty and wealth for centuries, from coins to fancy jewelry pieces such as chains. Skilled artisans make handcrafted jewelry; every piece is usually unique, and attention is paid to every aspect. For handmade gold chains, any type of gold, be it pure or alloy, can be used to achieve more unique and artistic designs. But many buyers may wonder, “Are crafted chains real gold?”
However, just because a chain is handcrafted doesn't guarantee that it contains real gold—so how can you tell?
What Does "Real Gold" Actually Mean for a Chain?
First, it helps to understand what "real gold" means in the context of jewellery because pure 24-karat gold, while real, is actually too soft for everyday chain production. At 99.9% gold, it bends, scratches, and deforms far too easily to hold up as a wearable piece.
That's why almost all gold chains are made from gold alloys gold mixed with other metals such as silver, copper, palladium, or zinc to increase hardness and durability. The proportion of gold in the alloy determines the karat:
Any chain marked 9ct or above and made of a consistent gold alloy throughout the piece is considered real gold. This is the standard definition used by jewellers, gold buyers, and hallmarking authorities worldwide.
For handmade gold chains specifically, any type of gold alloy from 9ct upward can be used — and at TJ Handcrafted, our in-house casting house works with gold from 9ct through 22ct depending on the client's brief and intended use for the piece.
Real and Fake Gold Chains
Are crafted chains real gold? Not all are made of real gold; some may be gold-plated, while others might even be made to appear like genuine gold chains.
Pure Gold Vs. Gold Alloys
Pure 24-karat gold is too soft and malleable for use as a jewelry construction material; therefore, it cannot be trusted with chain production. To strengthen and provide better scratch resistance in chains today, most are composed of alloys of gold and other metals, such as copper or silver.
Gold-Plated Chains
People with little jewelry knowledge often mistake fake gold-plated chains for genuine ones. Unfortunately, these chains only contain a thin coating of actual gold over an inferior base metal such as brass or copper, which could eventually wear away to expose the base.
Read more: What is considered handcrafted jewelry?
How Can You Tell Whether a Chain Is Real Gold
When purchasing a gold chain, buyers must understand how to verify its accuracy before deciding, “Are crafted chains real gold?” Here are a few methods:
1. Check for a Hallmark
A hallmark can help verify if a gold chain is genuine - this small sign on it indicates its purity (14K or 18K, for instance). Furthermore, in certain countries they're mandated by law so buyers are aware of exactly which metal content their purchase contains.
2. Do a Magnet Test
Real gold is not magnetic. With access to a strong magnet at home, use this to your advantage to perform a Magnet Test of any chain that could contain precious stones; if its mass draws towards it instead, this could indicate another material than gold being present in its composition.
3. Ask for Certification
When purchasing gold chains from a reputable jeweler, always request a certificate of authenticity which details both its purity and other essential details about it. This document should provide all relevant details.
Why Real Gold Matters
Many individuals prefer genuine gold chains over gold-plated or gold-filled chains for various reasons. Therefore, it is important to know, “Are crafted chains real gold?”
1. Durability
Real gold outlives other forms of jewelry, even when mixed with other metals. It is less likely to tarnish and wear away, making real gold an investment with longer-term potential.
2. Resale Value
Even broken or outdated gold chains hold value; scrap gold can even be sold. Real gold will always fetch higher than plated or filled jewelry when trying to sell your chain; exactly how much its worth depends upon purity and weight of gold content.
Due to the thinner layer of gold used, gold-plated jewelry does not hold much resale value compared to solid gold chains. It simply doesn't weigh enough to command as high a price when selling.
Read more: What is scrap gold worth?
3. Hypoallergenic Properties
Many people suffer from metal allergies, particularly nickel and copper. Real gold jewelry has proven its hypoallergenicity by not causing irritation to sensitive skin - ideal for anyone wanting to wear gold without risk. This makes real gold an attractive option among its rivals such as platinum.
Read more: Are gold nuggets pure gold?
How to Tell if a Crafted Chain is Real Gold: 6 Tests
1. Check for a Hallmark Stamp
This is the most reliable first step you can take at home. Every genuine solid gold chain should carry a hallmark — a small stamped marking indicating its karat purity. On chains and bracelets, look on or near the clasp. You may need a jeweller's loupe or your phone's macro camera to read it clearly.
Common real gold hallmarks:
375 = 9ct gold
417 = 10ct gold
585 = 14ct gold (our guide to what 585 gold means explains this in full)
750 = 18ct gold
916 or 917 = 22ct gold
Markings that indicate NOT solid gold:
GP, GEP, RGP = gold plated
GF = gold filled
GV or VG = gold vermeil
925 on its own (without a gold karat marking) = sterling silver
If there are no markings at all — that's a red flag. In New Zealand and most reputable markets, genuine gold jewellery is legally required to carry a hallmark.
2. The Magnet Test
Gold is not magnetic. Hold a strong magnet near your chain if it pulls toward the magnet, there is iron, steel, or nickel present, and the chain is not solid gold.
However, the magnet test has clear limitations. Many base metals used in plated jewellery including brass and copper are also non-magnetic. A chain that doesn't react to a magnet is not automatically real gold. Use this test as a quick filter, not a definitive verdict. A non-reaction means it could be real gold;a reaction means it almost certainly isn't.
3. The Weight Test
Real gold is dense. A solid gold chain feels noticeably heavier in the hand than a gold-plated chain of the same visual size. This is one of the most intuitive checks — if a chain that looks substantial feels surprisingly light, the core is likely a low-density base metal beneath a gold surface.
This test takes some familiarity to use well, but it's worth developing. The more solid gold pieces you handle, the more immediately obvious the density difference becomes.
4. Check forDiscolouration or Wear-Through
Examine the chain closely, especially at high-contact points the clasp, the links that sit on the back of the neck, and anywhere that rubs against skin or clothing. On gold-plated pieces, these are the areas where the gold layer wears away first, revealing the grey, copper, or yellow-green base metal beneath.
On a solid gold chain, the colour should be completely consistent throughout no patches, no variation, and no grey or green exposed anywhere.
5. The Ceramic Plate Test
Drag the chain gently across an unglazed ceramic surface (the unglazed underside of a tile works well). Real gold leaves a gold-coloured streak. Fake gold or heavily alloyed base metals leave a black or dark streak. This is a useful home test, though be gentle you don't want to damage a piece that may well be genuine.
6. Professional XRF Testing — The Most Reliable Method
If you genuinely need to know, bring the chain to a professional gold buyer or jeweller. At TJ Handcrafted, we use XRF (X-ray fluorescence) testing equipment that can determine the exact gold purity of a piece non-destructively, in minutes, in front of you.
This is the most accurate method available and has no risk of damaging your chain. If you're ever in doubt particularly about an inherited or secondhand piece a professional test is always worth the few minutes it takes.
The Bottom Line
Are crafted chains real gold? Answering this question depends on several different elements. While most handmade chains are constructed using real gold, others could be gold-plated or filled. Therefore, it's vitally important that when purchasing any jewelry item, it be of real gold content; look out for hallmarks, perform simple tests, and seek certification if unsure.
Real gold chains offer durability, value, and style at the same time. When searching for jewelry to stand the test of time and style wisely, a real gold chain will retain its value and beauty regardless of wear or storage needs; you don't have to wear or keep it just for special events!
Frequently Asked Questions
Are handcrafted gold chains automatically real gold?
No. The term "handcrafted" or "artisan-made" describes the production method — not the material. A handcrafted chain can be made from solid 18ct gold or from gold-plated brass. Always check the hallmark and ask the seller directly about the gold content. Don't assume craftsmanship implies material authenticity.
What is the minimum karat for a chain to be considered real gold in New Zealand?
In New Zealand, the legal minimum for a piece to be sold as gold is 9 karats (37.5% pure gold). Any piece sold as gold must carry a corresponding hallmark (375 for 9ct, or higher karat equivalents). Below 9ct is not legally sold as gold jewellery in NZ. In the US, the minimum is 10 karats (41.7% pure gold).
Can I sell a gold-plated chain to a gold buyer?
Gold buyers, including TJ Handcrafted, generally do not purchase gold-plated chains because the gold content is too small to be recovered meaningfully. If you bring in a gold-plated piece, we will tell you honestly rather than offer a misleading price. Solid gold chains — even broken, tangled, or very old are a different matter and hold genuine value. Read our guide on how much you can expect to sell your gold for for more detail.
Does the colour of a gold chain tell you if it's real?
Colour alone is not a reliable indicator. Gold plating is often done with 24ct gold because it is the most vivid yellow so a plated chain can look richer in colour than a genuine 9ct or 14ct piece. Additionally, white gold and rose gold chains don't look like "traditional gold" at all, but are still completely real gold alloys. Always go to the hallmark and, when in doubt, a professional XRF test.
How long does gold plating last on a chain?
The lifespan of gold plating depends on the thickness of the layer and how the chain is worn. In ideal conditions occasional wear, kept away from perfume, sweat, and moisture gold plating can last two years or more. Under daily wear conditions, the plating on high-contact areas typically begins showing wear within six to twelve months. Once worn through, replating is possible but adds ongoing cost. For daily wear, solid gold is almost always the more practical long-term investment. See our full care guide: How to Care for Your Handmade Jewellery
